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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.